Kinmata - Kyoto

Written by a Chef & foodie. I read all of your very good reviews about getting told stories and explained what you got served and so on. I didn’t got nothing at all of that. I got left in a empty room with other tables and a waitress who came and serve the courses. That’s it! I had some hope before this dinner, and I went so disappointed. I’ve spent 2w in Japan so far, and have 4 left and this was my worst meal at all. So far. First when I arrived I meet a nice lady who smiled and showed me the options, 4 to 9 courses menu. I love tasting menus. But she said to me, “order very fast”, “fast?” I was alone in the building. But I choose 6 courses, I got in a empty room alone, that’s fine. I got 5 small items served on a plate, nothing about what it was. I had no idea what i ate? Without my own skills, but that was guesses. They serve plate after plate and nothing about what I ate or any story and I paid 7000 Yen. Miso soup = Tasteless Other dishes = without my own knowledge i shouldnt know what i had paid 7000 yen for. Dessert = Maybe the best piece of pineapple I’ve eaten. And then I’ve worked abroad and been nearly all over the world. Waitress = She smiled and took my shopping bags when I was sitting to eat. Totally, this was the worst meal in Japan so far. Not my experience, maybe yours. But it was fun to get a try of “Kyoto cuisine”

My Japanese wife and I recently visited Kinmata for the first time for the kaiseki lunch course at 6000 yen per person (reservation) after being given a leaflet by someone I know who works part-time there in the accommodation area (to be honest - although this was not known by the owners in advance). It is a small national heritage building which has been in this location since 1801 and run by the same family (currently the 8th generation). We ate in the counter area which was a setting with a mix of modern and traditional aspects and where we could talk to the chefs and see them preparing food. There was only one other couple eating at the counter. Winter is not a busy period, it seems, so we could enjoy a relaxing meal and interact easily with all the staff. Cherry blossom season is much busier, of course. We started with a nicely-presented array of 4 small dishes including duck, tofu, seasonal vegetables and so on which we complemented with sparkling wine (extra charge). I can’t recall the exact order or all we ate, but we also had red sea bream sashimi, a mild broth with minced scallop, grilled fish and another nice dish which included tofu skin prepared in a way I have not experienced before. I drank a glass of Chardonnay and my wife continued with a half bottle of Spumante (all extra charge). We finished off with rice and pickles and a traditional Japanese dessert. It was a lovely, traditional kaiseki meal - a series of small, different seasonal dishes freshly prepared and each interesting in its own way and presentation with typically subtle flavours and textures plus the right amount to not feel bloated (for us) - this style of cuisine is not designed for big eaters, anyway. The 8th-generation son and chef explained some of the dishes in English when he was available at the counter while another chef explained others in Japanese (as well as explaining about aspects of the knives he used). We had a nice conversation with the son in English about Kinmata and about holding on to tradition while also moving with the times. His father (head chef and owner) also came to the counter and chatted to us in Japanese. It was interesting to hear about Kinmata and we were also lucky enough to look around and learn more about the building style and the garden from the son in English. As we left, we also had the opportunity to meet and briefly chat to the owner’s wife. Overall, irrespective of the fact I know someone who works as a part-time staff there, the traditional kaiseki was very nice (an understanding of what a kaiseki meal entails helps and related information is easily found online). To experience more of the heritage-listed building’s ambience, ask to eat in that area rather then the more contemporary counter, but obviously expect less interaction with the chefs and less opportunity to watch their food preparation. If you prefer the latter, ask to sit at the counter, obviously. Engagement with the chefs added to our experience but this came about by us being open and inquiring about the food, the family history and the building to which they readily responded, so I recommend taking this approach; otherwise, your privacy is respected in a Japanese way and you will be left to quietly enjoy your meal by yourself. It is up to each person in how they wish to experience Kinmata kaiseki and accomodation and how they make the most of visiting a small family-run business (traditional yet with a slight contemporary edge) which has a very long history in a unique building listed as a national heritage. For my wife and I, it turned out to be both a food and a cultural experience we really enjoyed.

They serve Kaiseki, which is something I think everyone should experience at least once in their life. My friend and I decided to go all out and splurge for dinner in a private room and the experience was amazing. Each dish was beautifully crafted and the staff would take their time to tell the tale behind some of the food and explain their origins and significance. And the food was so fresh and delicious that we wished the meal could continue for longer. Be sure to book the place at least 2-3 days in advance.

Had dinner on a Sunday in the new dining area not the traditional rooms. Omakase style. We sat at the counter and got to watch the chefs prepare every dish of the 1 courses. The owner-son is 8th generation of this 220 year establishment. With his time spent in Tokyo and New York he redesigned the modern dining area, and his chefs created dishes that reach beyond the rigid traditional rules. Every dish was exquisitely prepared, the service was impeccable, and experience a perfect blend of traditional and modern. Lots of Kyoto specific items, including fish, vegetables and herbs.

What an experience. From when you step through the door, to the final dish, you are treated to a unique experience. The food is prepared eat day based on the freshest ingredients available. The chef will introduce each dish before you eat it (in excellent english). For us this mean we really appreciated the history and meaning behind each piece of food. And the setting is incredible. It's like stepping back in time to a Japan of 100 years ago. An experience I highly recommend for any trip to Kyoto.

On the plus side, the food was excellent and fresh, as you'd expect. The rooms are very traditional (though I'm no expert). However, it's very expensive and, though it is almost worth the money, I think you can buy better experiences. They forgot our food requirements (I told them I don't eat shellfish). They're also inflexible with bookings (even though I was sick) and they refused to let us change the menu to a cheaper price on the day. Otherwise, the service was good.

The location is great and near the Nishiki market. I really like the Japanese traditional restaurant with garden inside the house. The waitress will lead you to a cozy private room. The staff also can speak English to introduce the cuisines. I also like the container which is used in our course. The rice with cherry shrimp and green beans was delicious. They also have the guest room and you can stay there ( need to reserve it before)

Despite having no booking, we were greeted with an infectious warmth that was echoed within the walls of Sage. Wood and browns spilled across the restaurant floor, making the whole restaurant feel spacious yet sheltered from the elements. Set up by Chef Kevin Aherne, the restaurant boasts an ambitious menu with descriptions of food that inspire curiosity. Donning the walls are images of the producers they source from, with more gleaming smiles filtering through the room. In an attempt to veer away from what I’d usually order, I decided to start with the “free-range chicken compression with burnt onion and apple caramel”. The chicken fell away like the texture of pulled pork but with the juiciness of a chicken leg. Mixing my fork with the onion and caramel, I savoured the moment. With mains on the way, I was eager to see what would be plated up next. Surrounding us were groups of diners and the aromas from the kitchen wafting through our seats. Going for the more unusual dish, I chose a goat’s cheese gnocchi with a crispy egg, and expected something quite wonderful. I wasn’t disappointed. Though the crispy egg could have been a shade crispier on one side, combining it with the cheese-infused gnocchi was such a delight that I didn’t mind.